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Mechanical Watch: Exploded View

https://fellerts.no/projects/epoch.html
260•fellerts•2h ago

Comments

jasonjmcghee•2h ago
These look incredible. I'm guessing there are museums that would love display these.

Also https://ciechanow.ski/ is an absolute inspiration.

kiru_io•2h ago
This is such a cool idea! You could potentially sell this or contact some watchmakers!
cjaackie•1h ago
This is a labor of love, there’s no way the 15+ hours would be worth it commercially.I think it’s cool and if you start looking at things like this as a business idea they get unfun really fast.
charcircuit•32m ago
There is currently no competition, so he gets to set the price.
crazygringo•16m ago
Except that above a certain price, demand falls to zero.

The question is whether there is any overlap at all where the price would be high enough to motivate supply (worth it to him) but low enough that there's still demand (worth buying). Also factoring in the cost of marketing, since potential buyers don't just automatically find you.

There are a huge number of business ideas where there is no overlap at all. Finding an overlap even without competition is hard enough. (Then add competition and it gets even harder, of course.)

cybertim•2h ago
l'm curious if Bartosz will actually contact him for that final casting, i know i would definitely love to own one. And mainly because I love mechanical watches, especially what's inside, but I don't like to wear or really use them, this is a great solution for this "problem".
azhenley•2h ago
I wear mechanical watches and have a small (and growing) collection. It’s irrational, but I like them anyway :) I’d appreciate an art piece like this.
hinterlands•2h ago
I've done some projects like that, although not with as many parts! I think the main disappointment that awaits the author is that within two years or so, the epoxy will turn yellow. These resins are unfortunately not UV-stable, even if kept in a reasonably well-lit area indoors (bookshelf, etc).

There are resins you can use for projects like that if you want them to last, but they're less fun to work with.

fellerts•2h ago
Modern epoxies often claim to be UV stabilized, and as far as I can tell, this is a relatively recent advancement. For reference, I used Entropy CCR (slow cure) for the final model: https://entropyresins.com/product/ccr-clear-casting-epoxy/

I guess we'll wait and see!

hinterlands•2h ago
We had UV-stabilized resins for the past two decades or so, but it just slows down the process. I used several UV-stabilized products and it just doesn't last.

For the UV-stable options, you have polyesters (which are very smelly) and premium aliphatic polyurethanes (which are finicky to work with).

hunter-gatherer•2h ago
Would putting some UV filter glass, the kind often used in museums, work to protect it the resin? I'm wondering if you fixed a glass casing around it that way... granted you'd have corner seems for the glass though
cyberax•1h ago
Maybe a cylindrical glass instead?
fellerts•1h ago
I tried that. Refraction makes it hard to understand what you're even looking at. https://fellerts.no/img/epoch/first-cast.jpg
lukan•1h ago
Yellow and not transparent anymore?

Or just a yellow tint?

hinterlands•10m ago
Just an orange-yellow tint. Here's a good example: https://preview.redd.it/k98iwl9flsk71.jpg?width=1080&crop=sm...
KomoD•2h ago
That is so cool, I really want one lol.
jv22222•2h ago
If I saw that in a shop I'd be super tempted to buy it.
Peterpanzeri•2h ago
Hope i can implement ths soon
nativeit•2h ago
> I don't have the tools or knowledge required to sand this down to a perfect mirror finish, but that's okay.

That was my only note: it would look incredible if squared off and polished to perfection.

Retr0id•2h ago
> I don't have the tools or knowledge required to sand this down to a perfect mirror finish

I did a resin cast that had a similar "lip" at the edge (I turned a LGA CPU socket into a coaster), and I was able to sand it down fairly easily using regular sandpaper of progressively higher grit, producing a more or less perfect cuboid. The flatness was achieved by taping the sandpaper to a flat surface, and moving the part.

It's been a while, I can't remember if I used some kind of polishing compound at the end or whether the sandpaper alone was enough for a good finish.

fellerts•1h ago
I suspect you're right, but knowing myself I'd quickly get sick of sanding (6 faces with 5-6 different kinds of sandpaper), and I'd want an orbital sander. Then I'm pretty sure you want to polish the surfaces: lots of elbow grease or a polishing/buffing tool. If I had a workshop with space for tools and dust I'd probably go for it, but I'm doing this in the living room of a small apartment.

Here's the process as explained by a reputable epoxy vendor: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9-WYOK90KNo

Loughla•1h ago
Tape or glue sandpaper to a piece of glass for a really flat surface. It works nicely for making consistent angles.

Source: holy shit can you get a knife sharp using this method.

amelius•1h ago
Wouldn't it make more sense to add the parts and epoxy layer-by-layer? So you don't need the sticks to hold everything together.

(Of course that means creating a new vacuum for every layer, probably).

rusbus•1h ago
perhaps you did not read the post—the author attempted layer-by-layer first but discovered it was impossible to get a smooth final result.

This is apparently a well known issue among people who create resin-cast structures.

amelius•1h ago
I think it may still work if you don't wait until the last layer has completely cured. The viscosity just has to be high enough to be able to suspend the artifacts.
istjohn•1h ago
Again, you may want to read tfa
amelius•1h ago
This sums it up:

"To achieve the effect I want, I need around 20 layers for a regular pocket watch movement. If I were to cast each layer in a transparent container, adding components and epoxy as the previous layer was half-cured, I would be doing nothing else for a solid week."

petermcneeley•1h ago
The suspension (supports) should not be visible if it has the same index of refraction.
fellerts•1h ago
Yep, nylon and epoxy resin have similar indices of refraction, but it's not perfect. I tried casting thin rods out of epoxy to replace the nylon but failed to achieve a good result.
buserror•1h ago
Have you tried Fluorocarbon? this has replaced Nylon for many fishing use (fly fishing in any case), it has a different refraction index -- not sure if it would be closer, or further from the resin, but at least it is different! :-)
fellerts•47m ago
Never tried, because fluorocarbon's index of refraction (1.42-ish) is further from epoxy resin (1.50-1.57) than nylon (1.53). It does make sense that fluorocarbon has replaced nylon because it's going to be less visible in water (1.33).

I guess the epoxy's index of refraction depends on all kinds of factors such as the mixing ratio and the conditions under which it cures.

j_bum•1h ago
This is incredible… congratulations on creating such an amazing piece.
thom•57m ago
Part of me wants to believe this is sacrilege: these are incredible machines, and the magic is in not just seeing _how_ they work, but that they continue to work reliably for decades, and when they don't it's magic seeing them fixed somewhere like https://www.youtube.com/@WristwatchRevival. But also... this is incredibly cool! As kids, my brother used to do these little resin sculptures, putting in sand shells and little plans to it'd look like the bottom of the sea. I tried repeatedly to get into the same hobby but I was always too impatient so my designs would end up with fingerprints all over them before they'd properly set.
WillAdams•34m ago
While it might not have the same cachet, an easier way to get this done would be to use a laser printing inside an glass or acrylic block --- just model all the parts:

This company works from photos:

https://beyond-memories.com

but there should be companies doing 3D --- I distinctly remember a company doing a 3D map of the nearby star systems (which the _Universe_ role-player in me desperately wanted) --- perhaps:

https://www.skyatnightmagazine.com/advice/diy/3d-model-neare...

could be modeled in Lego bricks?

jameshart•9m ago
Adam Savage took on a similar style of project trying to make an exploded cellphone cast in resin - with the added challenge of making the screen work. It was evidently a sponsored project and some of the work was rushed a bit - the outcome feels more like a prototype rather than the display quality piece he was going for - but the same kind of problem solving and techniques were involved.

Still, if you’re interested in more of the same sort of thing, worth a look:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jfEIstmyZaM

E-Reverance•2m ago
Would love to see a gaussian splat of this

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