https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zabar%27s

Zabars is a huge deli and grocery store. They have refrigerated cases full of deli stuff and the staff behind them packs it for you. They have a case full of nothing but smoked fish but I didn't see any salmon. The guy said it was the next case over. A huge case of nothing but smoked salmon: dozens of different kinds of salmon from different places, different woods, different parts of the fish. I was stunned.