Realistically, there are probably some legit 18650s and lots of fake ones. But it could be difficult to figure out which ones are legit before buying them. Co-mingling of warehouse stock is often cited as a reason why this is impossible: a legitimate seller may list their items, and then some sellers of fakes come along and state that they are selling the same SKU, and Amazon will mix all of these in a single bin in the warehouses, and you don't know which one you're getting in your order.
Just buy it on mouser or other providers that have direct relationships the manufacturers.
If you want a new battery for your Dyson, buy a tool battery adapter from Amazon and buy the tool battery from your local hardware store. Same price or less and you get insane run time + a new tool battery.
This x100. The Dyson batteries are expensive and die quickly (someone mentioned their experience mitigating the failure time by waiting to put the vacuum back on the charger until after it has cooled off). Getting a Milwaukee adapter for my Dysons has worked out really well. Runtime is much better, and I have one less custom battery size to deal with in my house.
https://notes.stavros.io/maker-things/battery-discharge-curv...
And here's the script itself:
https://gitlab.com/stavros/assault-and-battery/
As you can see, it's very easy to tell a new, genuine battery from an old or fake one.
Looks like Atorch DL24 battery tester can be used for that at a cost of around $22 or so. And the Tuya BW150 also has WiFi in and acts as a HID device for a couple bucks more.
Actually the article does not provide any info about that and it just misses what is promises in the title.
- Too light: Counterfeit batteries often weigh less because they use smaller or inferior cells.
- Overheating or fast discharge: Fake batteries often fail to hold charge properly and heat up quickly.
- Use a charger to measure actual capacity. If it’s far below the claimed value, it’s fake.
- Use a multimeter to check actual voltage. If it’s far off from the expected range (e.g., below 3.0V or above 4.2V per cell), the battery might be damaged or fake.
Voltage is flat out wrong, measuring voltage will not ID a fake cell.
https://www.reddit.com/r/18650masterrace/comments/qp21o8/buy...
wdym?
Section title. Proceeds to not elaborate on how to spot a counterfeit battery (besides CT scanning). Article seems unfinished and this qualifies as clickbait.
How is it better than a git repository? Or even an Excel spreadsheet?
lygte-info.dk/
sparrish•2mo ago
pulvinar•2mo ago
BandButcher•2mo ago
butvacuum•2mo ago
But, step #1 is pull up it's spec sheet and replicate their capacity testing method. At least for single cells. For packs there's not much you can do but buy from trusted places- manufacturer, bhphoto (for cameras).
18650batterystore has always been good to me, at least for the 300 Samsung 25R's I bought.
BandButcher•2mo ago
“For most of these products, they are sold with part numbers that show an equivalency to a manufacturer’s part number."
Doubt i'd do that, would probably just source from name brands.