> I looked at Cooler Master’s warranty, and for issues within the first two years you have to deal with the retailer. That would be Amazon in my case. So I looked at Amazon’s information on warranty issues. Their policy is that if it’s more than 30 days since purchase, you have to send it off to a third-party repair center and wait for them to diagnose and try to repair it. Here’s the kicker: Usually repairs take up to 20 business days (including delivery time), but could take slightly longer
Everyone knows electronic devices tend to die early or last forever. Cooler Master and Amazon are working a shitty dodge here, and I bet they avoid most DOA warranty claims because of it.
Tried to deal with the manufacturer, but they couldn’t help and sent me to the retailer.
Went to the store, popped it up on the counter, had a short conversation and got the expected “you have to deal with the manufacturer”.
Is there anything else I can help you with today?
Actually yes. Can you throw that out for me?
The confusion on the guy’s face was great.
Spent more than enough time on the $100 microwave. Their problem now.
The G1 Noctua fans don't, I have a 120mm still in my case that is a decade or so old and it starts at a bit under 7V, but all the G2 140mm will start at 5V IIRC the Noctua presentations on this. Wish it was laid out in the specifications however.
it's not bad advice but it's worth noting that petroleum jelly is pretty thick compared to a machinists' oil or dry graphite.
It's kindof a gimmick because it's easy to forget you have it, but if you have it, use it.
CRTs were dangerous because they used extremely high voltages (often as high as 25 kV), and that voltage was often present on the CRT itself, which acted as a capacitor. The capacitance of the CRT was relatively low, but it still stored enough energy to be very hazardous. There's ways to safely discharge them, but you absolutely need to know what you're doing and work with one hand behind your back.
The voltages in a modern switching power supply are much lower (typically no more than ~1.5x line voltage ≈ 180V), and the capacitors usually have "bleeder" resistors which will discharge them to safe voltages within a few seconds. I'd still give one a few minutes before touching it - and maybe check one or two of the bigger capacitors with a multimeter - but it's still much less dangerous.
mkayokay•2d ago
I guess if you know electronics and how to safely handle the PSU internals, the risk of injury is low, but I personally would not risk it for EUR 100.
Also, if the only problem was the noisy fan, I guess selling it used would have returned most of the investment, leaving him with like EUR 50 in added cost. Compared to the price of a modern gaming PC, that's nothing (also avoiding not risking your life).
jojobas•2h ago
doubled112•2h ago
jojobas•1h ago
scottlamb•1h ago
Is there? This kind of statement has the potential to exhibit survivorship bias, but I feel like the opposite—"12-year-old dies replacing a power supply fan"—would make headlines. Definitely haven't seen that.
Capacitors should be respected for sure, but people don't routinely die in DIY electronics tasks.
jojobas•58m ago
heelix•2m ago
tcdent•2h ago
It's sometimes uneconomical from a cost-ratio perspective, but it is crucial to making datacenter-grade equipment actually useable at home.
ahartmetz•2h ago
PaulKeeble•2h ago
ahartmetz•1h ago
aaronmdjones•2h ago
I replaced all 4 of them with Noctua NF-A4x20s, wired to run at full speed all the time. They still report their speed so the IPMI management interface doesn't consider the power supply fan to have failed, but the PSU can no longer control the fan's speed.
The PSUs don't run any hotter and I can't hear them now.
I have a used Eaton PW9130 UPS in the bottom of the rack. The 80mm (exhaust) and 60mm (inverter heatsink) fans were likewise louder than I'd like. I replaced them with Noctuas too, again wired to run at full speed all the time, and the UPS' Web/SNMP card confirms it's still no hotter than 30'C internally. I can't hear that now either.
Hilariously, the most critical fan, the original inverter heatsink fan, is a 2-pin fan, so it probably can't even detect when it has failed (unless it's detecting fan failure by monitoring current consumption). The original rear exhaust fan uses a locked rotor sensor rather than a tachometer, which required a bit of bodging to convince the UPS that it has not failed. Oh well.
ydj•27m ago
hobs•2h ago